Larry Melcher's Starling Trap

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" height=100 BGCOLOR="#CCCC99" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="0418dfe1esnpes.jpg"> <div> <FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#FF0000" FACE="Times New Roman" ><B>Entrances By Sandy</B></FONT><B>     </B><B>|</B><B>    </B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#FF0000" FACE="Times New Roman" ><B> </B><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Entrances By Sandy"><U><B>home</B></U></A></FONT></div> <div> <A HREF="id148.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="David Wurtz Chalet, redesigned by Brian"><U>David Wurtz Chalet, redesigned by  Brian Naughton</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id154.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="David Wurtz ChaletFlat Roof Version"><U>David Wurtz Chalet-Flat Roof Version</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id150.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Lane Stouts Gourd Vise"><U>Lane Stout's Gourd Vise</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id186.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="PVC Gourd Rack"><U>PVC Gourd Rack</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id238.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Brian Naughtons Flat Floor Arched Tunne"><U>Brian Naughton's Flat Floor Arched  Tunnels</U></A>   |   <B>Larry Melcher's Starling Trap</B>   |   <A HREF="id248.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Purple Martin Weathervanes"><U>Purple Martin Weathervanes</U></A></div> <div> </div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" height=380 BGCOLOR="#CCCC99" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="0418dfc3.jpg"> <div> <I><B>Larry Melcher's Starling Trap</B></I></div> <div> <B>By Larry Melcher of Kentucky</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Larry is selling these trip mechanisms if you don't want to build one yourself.  His price is $40.00 plus S&H.   Again, that is just for the trip mechanism, you will have to supply your own box to put it in.  Contact him at </B><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#0000BF" FACE="Times New Roman" ><A HREF="mailto:purplemartin@windstream.net" TARGET="_top" TITLE="mailto:purplemartin@windstream.net"><U><B>purplemartin@windstream.net</B></U></A></FONT></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B>Larry Melcher's Brass Hinge Nest Box Trap</B></div> <div> (lever assembly instructions)</div> <div> This is what I came up with while making my own NBT. I did not describe every detail, assuming those that use this for there own creation, is handy at making things and don't need step by step instructions. <B>The entire trip assembly can be removed from the "trap house" for maintenance, or if your on vacation and can't monitor it daily. ALL TRAPS MUST BE MONITORED DAILY. </B>I found that while making this; some basic things apply. The lightest materials, and the shorter you design the lever, will trip with less weight. I had this completely finished; painted the inside of the plastic jug to darken the "nest area" and had to re-adjust the weight! The weight of painting the jug, changed the sensitivity. Most traps like this strive to trip with the weight of  5 to 7 quarters (coins), this one will trip on 1 quarter and a dime. Fifty cents (2 quarters) will trip this every time by gently laying the coins in; not tossing! By changing the amount of washers on the 3-1/4" counter weight bolt to trip on 3 or more quarters, speeds the re-setting time drastically, if you desire. The brass hinge keeps side to side play to a minimum, reducing any hang-ups.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="fb7bc0d0.jpg" border=0 width="700" height="525" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> By looking at the stick rule, you can see the sizes of the items used. Notice the finished trip assembly in the background. The little white piece of tape in the jug gives the Starling something to show the nest they are about to steal, has a bottom. You could leave it light like this, or you may want to add more items in the "nest" to lure Starlings inside.</div> <div>   The foundation (fulcrum) can be made of anything. 2 and 1/2 inches tall is what it takes to "travel" up and down the distance of the diameter of the entrance & exit hole. When a Starling or House Sparrow (S&S) jumps in, the nest box must fall 2-1/4" to block the entrance. The S&S will have only one choice to get out; the exit hole to your 4" pipe mounted on the back of your trap.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="e825e070.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="263" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="e845e070.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="263" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>Photo Above Left. </B>When mounting the brass hinge, make sure the "barrel" of the hinge does not rub the foundation you mount it to . Notice how I have mounted this hinge slightly above the angle so that there are no points of contact that could cause "sticking". <B>Mount hinge as "high" as possible. </B>At least 2-5/8" from center of hinge to base. The angle "foundation", or the "fulcrum", is 2-1/2" tall. Mount brass hinge high. You will need it so the jug will drop far enough down to "cover" the entrance hole to the trap. In the photo above left, I could have mounted this hinge even "higher" to about 2-3/4".</div> <bR> <div> <B>Photo Above Right </B>shows how the hinge is almost <B>too large </B>for the angle. Although this looks tacky, I chose the smallest (lightest) lever. 1inch aluminum angle, about 1/16" thick. I also wanted a good size brass hinge to provide the least amount of friction, and minimize side to side play so the nest does not make contact with the walls of the house. Minimizing a trap that is stuck in an "up" or "down" position.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="e865e070.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="263" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="e885e070.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="263" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>Photo Above Left. </B>Centerline of pin on hinge, to counterweight is just over 3 inches.</div> <div> <B>Photo Above Right. </B>Centerline of pin on hinge, to center of nest area; 4-1/2 inches. </div> <bR> <div> <B>Stay as close as you can to these measurements. Altering theses affects how sensitive the trap is.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div>  I made the entire trip assembly as short as possible because the lighter you build it, the less weight it takes to trip it. It can be used to catch lighter House Sparrows. Also a shorter house to be built around it. I have found it is easier to build a trip assembly first, then a build your Nest Box Trap (birdhouse) around it. <B>The battery box can be used </B>for a house, but <B>it is MUCH easier to build a house around the Trip Assembly. </B>Some trip assemblies need a lot of "customization", to fit inside a marine battery box. A large playmate cooler will be my next "quick" house. Inexpensive too.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="e8a5e070.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="263" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="e8c5e070.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="263" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>Photo Above Left </B>shows the adjustable wood screws in the 1x6 base. (<I>I use a 1 x 8 base on the trip assemblies in a wood box.)  </I>These screws are for dropping the assembly into the birdhouse box. By adding these screws, you don't have to be so precise, just make the base about an inch smaller (length x width) than the bird box you will have it in. Start by running the screws in fairly deep. Put the assembly in the bird house box, and see which way to lengthen or shorten the screws to keep the assembly exactly where you want it. Once these are set, you can remove the assembly, and drop it back in. It will line up exactly where you pre-set it to be.</div> <div> <B>Photo Above Right. </B>Notice the jug I choose. Light, plastic. This is a 1 gallon container. Notice how I cut the bottom out. The entrance side of the trap, is the top of the jug.</div> <div> By cutting your jug this way, the entrance hole is 7" to the top instead of  9 inches. This is very nice when building your house. The entrance hole to the <B>trap is not "crammed" up to the top.</B> It is 2" lower. By using the jug cut this way; a Starling looks inside; he finds a nice large cavity. All he sees is a nice big room; tall as it is wide. 2 inches in height is saved by this style entrance to your jug. The jug only needs to drop far enough to cover the entrance.</div> <bR> <div> <B><IMG SRC="e8e5ee10.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="225" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="e905ee10.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="225" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Photo Above Right and Left. </B> Now, I want you to compare 3 photos. The 2 above, and the bottom right photo before these. The photo before these, (on the previous page) is the trap in the "ready" or "Up" position. Notice the rule is showing that to the top of the jug is about 9" and the entrance to the jug is 7" to the top.</div> <div> Now look at the 2 photos above. When the jug is in the "tripped" or "Down" position, the photo on the left shows that the jug only dropped 1 inch. <B>Cut entrance hole </B>on birdhouse box, as <B>far to the right</B> as possible. This <B>must</B> be done so when the bird jumps in, the entrance hole he came in is <B>completely </B>covered. Some birds have been able to turn around, see a gap, and pry the jug back up and escape. <B>Make sure</B> your entrance hole is covered completely when the jug drops.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="e925ee10.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="225" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="e945ede0.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="222" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>Photo Above Left. </B>The roll of teflon tape (size of exit hole) represents the exit hole. When the Starling or Sparrow jumps in, the trap falls to line up with the exit hole.</div> <div> <B>Locating Holes on Bird Box. </B>(read instructions in photo above left) <B>Do not drill anything </B>until you have tested your trip assembly inside your birdhouse box. I adjust my trip assembly to be as far to the right of the box as possible and still not touch the walls when moving assembly up and down. This way the entrance hole on my birdhouse box is as far to the right as possible, and the other "fake holes" drawn on the box, are space out nicely. </div> <div> Trim your jug so you have a slight gap between the walls and the plastic jug. </div> <div> When drilling "locater holes", drill the small holes inside where you think the 2-1/8" entrance and exit hole will be. With the drill bit through the wall you can see where the edge of you 2-1/8" hole should be. Use the small hole you drilled and mark where you want the edge of your hole with a pencil. When you use your hole saw drill, align the edges of the hole saw bit with the lines you drew on the box. Plan on these small locater holes to "land inside" your 2-1/8" entrance and exit holes. If they don't, it will just be "cosmetic" and will not affect your Nest Box Trap.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="e965ee10.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="225" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="e985ee10.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="225" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>Photo Above Left</B> is another "shot" of locating the entrance hole. This one is a marine battery box birdhouse. The largest one you can buy. I have found it to be <B>easier to build a box</B> around the assembly. If you decide to use a battery box, keep your receipt on your battery box. You may not buy the correct size the first time. Inside dimensions on my birdhouse boxes are 8"X 14"X 10" tall.</div> <div> <B>Photo Above Right </B>shows the entrance to the trap. It is as far to the right as possible, so when the trap falls, the entrance hole is covered by the top of the jug<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >.</FONT></div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="e9a5ee10.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="225" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="e9c5ee10.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="225" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>Photo Above Left </B>shows my small locator hole on the exit side of the trap. I meant for it to "land" inside my 2 1/8" circle. No problem. It is too small to cause any problems. Notice the bottom of the jug inside the hole. It is ready to catch a S or S. </div> <div> <B>Photo Above Right.</B> Notice the counterweight. Stack washers to adjust the balance. The 3 1/4" bolt also is the "stop". Jug drops when bird jumps in; counterweight pulls it back up; and the bolt stops the trap at a height you choose. This jug needs to be painted black.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="e9e5e070.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="263" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="ea05e070.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="263" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>Photo Above Left </B>shows the trap inside the "bird house" (RV battery case). Trim the jug to only have about 1/8" to 1/4" space from the walls. The wood screws in the 1 x 6 base is to adjust the jug center line. Once you adjust, the trap can be taken out and dropped right back in; lined up perfectly.       (<I>I use a larger 1x8 base in my wood houses.)</I></div> <div> <B>Photo Above Right</B> shows the trap in the "tripped" position. I placed 2 quarters (coins) inside to keep it down. This shows the top of the jug is lower than the entrance hole. The bird has only one choice out. The exit hole. <B>Entrance hole MUST </B>be out of a trapped birds reach. This photo shows there is no way the bird can get out the way he came in.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="ea25ede0.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="222" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="ea45ede0.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="222" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>Photo Above Left </B>shows proof it works! I used an old hamster cage as a holding pen. Notice the finished trip assembly. Paint the inside black, so a sneaky starling will go in.</div> <div> <B>Photo Above Right </B>shows how this trap is placed close to trees where Purple Martins are not interested. The branches on the Cedar trees are only a foot or two from the NBT. When a NBT is placed close to martin housing with Starling Resistant Entrance Holes (SREH's), it is much more effective. The NBT only catches birds looking for nest sites. When Starlings are trying to gain access to your SREH's on your martin housing, and they see this nice wood bird box with <B>large round holes,</B> it is hard for them not to pass up peeking inside this "birdhouse". I have never caught <B>anything</B> but Starlings in this trap, and I believe it is because the trap is so close to trees. Purple Martins don't  get near it. I have an 1-1/2" escape hole on my pipe that is attached to the back of the house. I don't want any Bluebirds to get caught. They can escape through the 1-1/2" hole on the pipe.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="ea65ede0.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="222" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="ea85ede0.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="222" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>Photo Above Left</B> is a front view of a NBT in my yard. This is made of Western Red Cedar. Only 1 black circle is a hole. The rest are fake's drawn on with a black marker. A Starling will see the holes as a house to steal a nest from. Top Right circle is the entrance.<B> </B>The 4 inch sewer pipe (chute) is tucked neatly behind the 4x4 post by using a 22-1/2 degree bend. By using this slight bend, the first part of the chute is close enough to vertical to keep the bird from clinging to the pipe and defeating the trap.</div> <div>  <B>Photo Above Right </B>shows a way you can attach a 4 inch sewer pipe to the box. Just two small wood screws hold this on. Screws are accessed through the 1-1/2” hole. A PVC cap covers the end. I have an 1 1/2" hole drilled directly across from the 2 1/8" hole in the PVC pipe. I am only targeting Starlings here. You could make this exit hole covered with a screen and catch <I>all</I> birds. I have mine this way because House Sparrows (luckily) are not a problem. I don't want a Bluebird to be trapped. He is small enough to pass through the 1-1/2" hole.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="eaa5ede0.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="222" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">  <IMG SRC="eac5ede0.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="222" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B>Photo Above Left</B> shows how my holding pen is set-up. When I need to cut the grass, I remove my cage by lifting the 4 inch sewer pipe and taking the piece of wood out from under it. Then the pipe can slip out of the 22-1/2" degree bend, and everything can be moved without any tools. I store as much of this inside during the winter as I can. </div> <div> <B>Photo Above Right </B>has a lot of information in it. This was the first thing I came up with on my holding pen, and it has worked well, so I have never changed it. The nice thing about the NBT is that to <B>disable the trap</B>, simply leave this cage door open.</div> <bR> <div> <B>Roof.</B></div> <div> Many different ways to make a roof for your trap. As long as your roof lets you access the trip assembly, and keeps the inside dry, that is all you need.</div> <bR> <div> <B>How the NBT works:</B></div> <div> When the bird jumps in the nest box trap, and the bottom drops, this scares the bird and it immediately wants out. <B>On this trap,</B> he looks out the 2 1/8" hole in the back of the house and <B>sees daylight </B>through the 4" sewer pipe, by looking across the pipe at the 1 1/2" hole, and several drilled in the top of the pipe cap. A small bird could go free by jumping across the 4" pipe and out the 1-1/2" hole. A Starling will only get his head out of the hole. His wings won't hold him up flapping inside the pipe. No bottom, so he falls to the bottom of the 4 inch pipe into the hamster cage. I can use binoculars from my window at home and see if I have anything in my trap. Plenty of room to help keep any birds calm. Good birds get set free. Starlings are "<I>controlled".</I></div> <bR> <div> <B>ALL TRAPS MUST BE MONITORED DAILY. Please don't chance killing native birds. If you don't have time to monitor, close or disable your trap. To disable this trap, I just leave the door on the cage open. Birds still pass through the trap, but are unharmed and just fly out of the open cage at the bottom of the 4" pipe. (chute)</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Adding a little grass, sticks or smearing mud inside the jug, </B>will make this trap much more effective. Starlings will jump right in, if they feel like they have found an active nest to steal. Help all native birds in your area by building a NBT. </div> <bR> <div> This trap is sensitive enough to catch House Sparrows. You must make the 1-1/2" "escape hole" smaller, or cover it with screen. But, be careful. It will catch and hold any bird that enters. Even Bluebirds.</div> <div>  </div> <div> My brass hinge traps are very sensitive, and will trip on the weight of two quarters. (Coins) You may call this "bragging rights". If you have bought a trip assembly from me, you received it tripping with the weight of 2 quarters. These style traps strive to trip with the weight of 5 quarters. This is about equal to the weight of a small House Sparrow. Starlings are heavier, about equal to the weight of 7 to 9 quarters.</div> <bR> <div> The trap I use at home is still set to lightest "50 cent" setting. You can virtually eliminate all possible hang ups, by adding some washers to your counterbalance. If you are worried about your trap sticking (I don't), you can adjust your trip assembly to reset faster and take more weight to make it go down.</div> <bR> <div> So think about it. If it will trip with the weight of 2 quarters, and you add washers to your counterbalance, the jug will be "pulled" up with the added washers. Set yours to trip with the weight of 3 to 4 quarters if this puts your mind at ease. I sometimes just bang on the pole of my NBT. This vibration will allow a jug stuck on the wall to re-set. </div> <bR> <div> Instructions by: <B>Larry Melcher.  Email Larry -  </B><A HREF="mailto:purplemartin@windstream.net" TARGET="_top" TITLE="mailto:purplemartin@windstream.net"><U><B>purplemartin@windstream.net</B></U></A></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id238.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Brian Naughtons Flat Floor Arched Tunne"><U><B>Previous Page</B></U></A><B>                 </B><A HREF="mailto:sbunn1@suddenlink.net" TARGET="_top" TITLE="mailto:sbunn1@suddenlink.net"><U><B>Contact Me</B></U></A><B>            </B><A HREF="id248.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Purple Martin Weathervanes"><U><B>Next Page</B></U></A></div> </td> </tr></table></body>